Friday, April 13, 2007

Making the Cut: A Matter of Interpretation

By EMILY BRADY for The NYTimes, Published: April 8, 2007

...the carnicerías, or butcher shops, of Jackson Heights, Queens, were bustling last week with Hispanic customers tempted by glossy lobes of liver and super-thin slices of top round steak.

The carnicerías, where meat is carved and sold just as it is in the old country, are a sign of a year-round culinary tradition, as are the empanadas and roast chicken brought by the Colombians, Argentines and other Latin American immigrants in the area. But they are a tradition becoming increasingly difficult to maintain. Butchers who are skilled in satisfying the preferences of their pan-Latin clientele are hard to find because of competition for their small numbers....
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